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It's squash season and most anticipated season, not least for all the spiced dishes and other comfort food of autumn. This Northwest Indian sautéed dish is one I cook often, and the combination of fresh ginger, chilli and jaggery lends it a wonderful balance of flavour. The biryani, on the other hand, is packed with aromatic spices, long-grain rice and ghee, which provide so much more taste to the layers of rice and produce.

Squash and Mushroom Biryani

A celebration of curry dishes begins around October 6, so what better way to celebrate than with a flavorful, warming, all-in-one-pot biryani? If you like, make the spiced vegetable mixture element ahead of time and assemble everything on the day you want to serve.

Preparation 20 min
Cook 2 hr
Serves 4

For the squash and mushroom gravy
4 tbsp ghee, or use butter
1 tsp cumin seeds
2 dried bay leaves
4 cloves
450g white onions, thinly sliced
3 green bird's eye chillies, lengthwise slit
5cm piece fresh ginger, julienned
2 tbsp tomato puree
¼ tsp mild chilli powder, or kashmiri chilli powder
1 tsp ground turmeric
2 tsp coriander powder
1 heaped tbsp greek yoghurt
300g butternut squash flesh, cubed
300g button mushrooms, trimmed and sliced
400ml vegetable stock, or use water
Salt, as needed
2 tbsp chopped coriander, to garnish

Rice preparation
200g basmati rice
2 bay leaves
4 green cardamom pods
A pinch of salt

Biryani assembly
2 tbsp melted ghee
1 pinch saffron threads, soaked in 3 tbsp warm water
1¼cm piece fresh ginger, peeled and cut into matchsticks
3 tbsp finely chopped fresh mint leaves
1 tsp ground cardamom powder
1 tsp garam masala
Raita and salad, to serve

Begin by preparing the curry base. Melt the clarified butter in a large, thick-bottomed pot on a medium heat, add the cumin seeds, bay and clove spices, and fry for a few seconds. Add the onion slices and sauté, frequently turning, for about half an hour, until softened. When the onions start to brown, remove half to a plate and reserve (you'll use them later during the assembly).

Introduce the fresh chilies and ginger to the onions in pan, cook for a brief period, then mix in the tomato paste, chilli powder, turmeric powder and coriander powder, and fry for a minute. Turn down to a low heat, stir in the yogurt and simmer for a couple of minutes.

Mix in the squash and mushroom halves, toss to cover in the spices, then fry for several minutes. Add the liquid, and season to taste. Heat until boiling, then lower the temperature, cover and cook gently for 18-20 minutes, stirring once halfway to ensure nothing's stuck to the bottom of the pot. Garnish with coriander, then remove from the heat.

Preheat the oven to 200C (180C fan)/390F/gas 6. Wash the basmati, then put it in a saucepan with a litre of water and the bay, cardamom pods and salt. Bring to a boil, cook for 10-12 minutes, until three-quarters cooked, then strain.

To build the layered dish, place a spoonful of warmed ghee in a casserole pot for which you have a tight-fitting lid. Spoon half the vegetable curry, then layer with half the rice. Add a portion the saffron infusion, ginger, mint, ground cardamom and spice blend, then add the reserved fried onions. Top with the rest of curry mixture, then spoon on the leftover rice. Top with the rest of ghee, saffron liquid, ginger, mint, cardamom powder and spice mix.

Seal with baking paper, cover with the lid, then bake on the center rack of the oven for 15-17 minutes, so all the flavours infuse the rice. Take out of the heat, allow to stand, keeping covered, for several minutes, then remove the cover and present with yogurt sauce and salad.

Rajasthani Achari Kaddu (Squash with Pickling Spices Sauté)

The Indian word "achari" describes flavouring a dish using pickling spices, and the combination contains mustard seeds, fennel, fenugreek seeds, cumin seeds, hing and nigella, but their use extends beyond in pickles. The blend also features in all manner of curries and stir-fries, like this recipe.

Preparation 10 min
Cooking 30 min
Serves 4

1 tsp black mustard seeds
½ tsp fenugreek seeds
1 tsp fennel seeds
4 tbsp vegetable oil
1 pinch asafoetida
5cm piece fresh ginger, minced
750g squash flesh, or use pumpkin, cut into bite-sized pieces
1 tsp mild chilli powder
½ tsp ground turmeric
Salt, as needed
1 tbsp jaggery, or dark brown sugar
2 tsp dried mango powder

Place the mustard seeds, fenugreek and fennel in a mortar, crush coarsely, then reserve. Heat the oil in a large frying pan or kadhai on a medium heat. Add the ground spices and the asafoetida, and sauté, stirring, for a brief moment. Add the chopped ginger, cook for a short while, then stir in the pumpkin pieces, chilli and turmeric, and sauté, tossing, for five minutes more.

Pour a small amount water to the pot, season with seasoning to taste and heat until bubbling. Place lid, reduce the flame, and simmer for 20 minutes, mixing midway through. Add the jaggery, crushing some of the pieces a bit, then add the dried mango, stir well and serve warm with chapatis or leavened bread.