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I was delighted to discover that the traditional Indian seasoning podi – a coarse mix of searingly hot, roughly ground spices, which you stir into a little oil and use as a dip for dosa or idli – is also known as “gunpowder” spice mix. It's aptly named if you were using my grandmother’s homemade dried chilies, but it would be kind to say that I’m far less adventurous with chilli, so here I suggest red pepper flakes instead. It’s an extraordinarily good marinade for these paneer and potato skewers.

Spicy Paneer and Potato Skewers with Lime-Mint Dressing

Prepare six to eight skewers made of metal or wood (if made of wood, let them sit in water for 10 minutes first).

Prep 10 min
Cook 30 minutes
Serves a couple

400g firm potatoes, sliced into four-centimeter chunks
225g paneer, cut into 0.8-inch cubes
1 tsp coriander seeds
½ tsp fennel seeds
1 tsp cumin seeds
1 tsp black peppercorns
One tsp chilli flakes
1½ tsp flaky sea salt, with more for serving
2 garlic cloves, peeled and grated
2½cm piece fresh ginger, prepared and minced
about 3 tablespoons mild oil
1 red onion, prepared and divided into eight wedges, then sliced across

For the dressing
Finely grated zest and juice of 1 lime
10g fresh mint leaves, minced
Half a teaspoon flaky sea salt
One hundred grams natural yoghurt

Boil the potatoes for 9 minutes, then remove the water and leave to steam dry for a minute. At the same time, put the paneer cubes in a pot of hot water for five minutes, then remove water and dry gently.

Tip the spice seeds into a mortar or spice grinder, add the seasonings, then mash or process to a rough rubble.

Place in a medium-large bowl with the shredded aromatics, add the oil, then carefully mix in the cubed paneer, cooked potatoes and red onions to coat. Skewer the paneer, potatoes and onions on to the prepared skewers, then place on a tray and keep ready – if you like, you can at this stage wrap and chill the skewers.

Stir all the dressing components in a container. Preheat the broiler to its maximum heat, then bake the sticks for a short time on each side, until the paneer is browned and the potatoes are starting to char. (This may take a different amount of time depending on the intensity of your oven, so watch carefully, especially when cooking the first side.)

Offer the grilled sticks immediately, sprinkled with a little more salt and the dressing alongside for dipping.